HARDCORE AND GABBER

Its sometime in the late 80s, or maybe the 90's- Amsterdam, or maybe Rotterdam. The Dutch wanted to create an alternative to a shallow and elitist nightlife. A new kind of night, with a working class banner and an anti-fashion uniform, and a purposefully overwhelming sound, Rotterdam became the place to escape the mainstream. A bunch of gabbers having fun, the term 'gabbers' meaning "buddy" or "pal" with a sense of friendliness and unity.Somewhere in the night, in a a cavernous space. The black darkness is pierced by mobs of bright beams, somewhere between police searchlights and futuristic lasers all that’s really noticeable is the sound. A questionable music comprised of pummeling beats firing off at a thousand miles per hour, and packing enough punch to rattle skulls accompanied by a zombie-like mob dancing with erratic abandon that lies somewhere between electrocution and religious trance. Their eyes as wide as saucers, their brains on fire, they dart about maniacally with the facial gestures of malfunctioning androids. And yet, through this entire view of fearful pandemonium, you feel alive with a sense of passion and community that you never could have imagined. This is the wild and legion-like sensation of the "hardcore and gabber scenes".

THE RAVE BEGINS

From here came the birth of an enormous rave in the Dutch capital of Utrecht called, “The Final Exam,” in 1992. It was so successful it would lead to the creation of the label ID&T. And though known for many things (including the founding of the bigger-than-ever Mysteryland festival), in that same year they would change the status of hardcore and gabber forever with the birth of Thunderdome. For many of the early scene this was the end of their underground haven, but for hordes of newcomers, Thunderdome was only the beginning and although the rise in popularity began to equally widen and distort the original foundation, early gabber and hardcore had a fairly rigid fashion (or lack thereof). Rooted in working class sentiments and communities, the first outfits were a hybrid of skinhead, sports, and street attire. Shaved heads, possibly a tightly braided ponytail, or the variation of long hair on top with shaved sides (the “Rotterdam” look), brightly colored track suits, elaborately patterned wind breakers (or straight up bomber jackets), athletic sports bras, and of course, Nike Air Max sneakers worn together to form the mandatory wardrobe. Funnily enough you may have noticed all my posts on nike trainers, if you know me you'll know i rave and damn i love a good bralet and my hair is forever braided. A lot of my fashion advice comes from my Dad, who indeed had a shaven skin head and owned a collection of shell suits, as did my mom.

Many gabbers wore jeans that were slightly baggy and sagged at the break much alike my dads old shorts he still wears to mow the lawn, in similar style

to the fit of the windbreakers and tracksuits. Loose and flowing attire was perfect for raving till the break of dawn and still is, as me and my friends still do it now. This was the fountain of youth designer Raf Simons drank from in creating his Spring/Summer 2000 “Summa Cum Laude” collection, pairing

voluminous high-waisted trousers (which are now in the shops EVERYWHERE, its hard to find a pair that aren't high waisted) with oversized MA-1 bomber jackets emblazoned with the pyramid logo of the Rotterdam Terror Corps. This designer is now collaborating with Adidas and creating trainers to this day that i always spy in the rave! Many factors led to the inevitable decline of the first wave of hardcore and gabber. Beyond the customary outfits, drugs were also an understood norm of the scene. Pills, both basement and designer, were the standard. Their vast consumption held the promise of transcending not only through the sonic fury of the music but also beyond the physical imitations of the body. What’s most striking is to see how popular fashion of today feels eerily similar to that of the early days of the gabber and hardcore outfits, be it the tracksuits, the overall colors and patterns, the sports apparel, or even the hairstyles. And, of course, who can forget the Nike Air Max? As I've said in many blog posts before maybe raving is the reason why Vintage clothing and Nikes have come back into fashion. Guaranteed some of the things I've purchased second hand have been previously raved in either in this decade or the two before. In many places though, the scene never died, and never will- Birmingham, London, and Manchester.

I recently visited amsterdam and indeed attended a rave which really felt like i stepped back in time. The dutch really know how to go hard or go home. Some things i think will never change.

For a glimpse of the action watch the film "weekender".